Slug Guns and Muzzleloaders

[Kermit1945]

Mike, if it's rifled 1:72, it's a roundball gun, no? I don't have a slug gun, but have a RB bench rifle and a chunk gun, both underhammers. I know my bench rifle is 1:72, but can't remembering checking the twist on the chunk gun.

I'm glad to get connected to this site. It's my first post here. There's not much that I've found on these unusual guns. I'll be back.

[MikePifer]

Jim, I like your idea of the 10 lb lead, makes sense. I guess I don't really know what the finished bullet should look like. So far the ones I have made leave no doubt that they are 2 piece, perhaps that is not a problem, or I just need to get better at making them. I will try with the 10 lb base. I don't really want to buy new swedge dies if I don't neet them.


Thanks,
Mike

[MikePifer]

Hi Kermit,

Your are so right this is the only site that I have found that talks about Slug Guns. I do have a .50 cal round ball rifle, however i was talking about a two piece .45 Cal for my Slug rifle 1/18. From what Jim has helped me with I think I will stay with what I have until I get to shoot it and see what it does. I have not shot the rifle yet, way to much snow here in CT.

Take care,
Mike

[Kermit1945]

Thanks for the reply, Mike. Sorry if I was confusing the thread. I was confused, I guess. Still am. Since you said 1:72, I thought that was the twist in the gun you are asking about. Am I wrong?

[MikePifer]

Kevin,

I probably wrote in a confusing way, in that post I was referring to My RB gun, which I think is 1/72. I have not confirmed that yet, but looking down the Bbl with a light It is a slow twist.

Best,
Mike

[MikePifer]

Sluggun45,

I used your idea to pour a lead base around my swage an set it in and what a difference, that really makes for a solid foundation. My base ended up a little of 20 lbs and it sure stops any bounce at all when I hit it.
Keep those good ideas coming Jim.

Thanks,
Mike

[Kurt]

This is a interesting forum.
I have never shot a designated slug gun but shot a lot of round ball matches. It has entered my mind many times to build a slug gun but that is as far as it got.
Seems like you guys like using the tougher freezer paper and vellum paper.
I have several different 100% cotton rag Vellum papers and two I like to use for my hunting bullets because it resists water when in the field and it is a tough soft Vellum unlike most that has a tendency to be hard and stiff to patch a bullet with.
Paper made by Helix in Bensenville IL is one, Item No. 37101 it's .003" thick and the other is Calque made by Canson it is a 25# paper that is .0018" thick. I found this in Walmart.

I think if I was seriously into this slug gun shooting for compition I would seriously invest in a swaging press and dies. I read were some of you like a two part bullet with a hard base and soft on top. I have swagged bullets using 1/40 for the first .300 at the base and hard 1/16 on top but I found that I needed away to lock the two together or I would get two holes on the target so I had to find a way to lock them together with a pin and socket but I had to make some punches to form the core before swaging the nose do this but it is a lot better then making a double lead pour into a mould.

In the photo below is a base wad or scraper wad made out of copper that has been in use since the 1800's and I called the NRA about the legality of using it in a sanctioned match and the answer I got was as long as it is a flat wad and not a cup like a gas check it's ok. No restrictions on type of wad just so it's not a gas check.
Would something like the scraper wad be legal for the slug gun? It was used and is period correct.
I use these in the Hand Guns using pure lead or a alloy and they shoot good that I use them for the bulls eye matches.

By the way that lead pimple can be flattened flush with the base.

Kurt

[MikePifer]

Kurt, very interesting on the copper scraper wad, not sure what advantage they would have for a Slug Gun. To this point all I know about shooting slug guns is what I have read, practical experience in ZERO, I do have a SG and when the weather gets to the point that I can shoot without ice forming on my nose I will shoot it. You mention double pouring the lead to make a two part bullet, I agree that would be a disagreeable function. Your point on the two piece bullets not locking together should not be a problem if they are made like the example of the bullet I will try to attach a photo of ( not much luck in attachments) I have talked to those who have shot them and they indicate no problems with separating. Of course they need to be swedged together with a hammer swedge.

Mike

[Kurt]

Mike.

For the front stuffer that scrapper wad would not do much I dont think because it will be under bore diameter but it would protect the bullet base. One could use a base guard wad copper or zinc loose when it is cone shaped before swaging it to the base this would expand the wad to fill the grooves when the charge is set off.
I never have checked out a recovered bullet for the front stuffer with that wad attached to the base but I have for the cartridge rifle and they do scrape fouling. During the civil war a guy by the name of Harvy came out with this to help keeping the fouling down in the Springfield rifle.
http://www.corbins.com/bgk-1.htm

[Slugun45]

If the base of thebullet is cast of soft lead with a nice sharp edge to the base therewill be no problems with expansion and sealing of the grooves. I don't know if I mentioned that I put a LPD wad over the powder and that the load I use is 89 grains of GOEX 2F. This is a good starting place as far as powder charge. Also some guys here at Friendship have had success with a one peice bullet; again pure soft lead.