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08-22-2022, 11:02 PM,
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Kurt
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RE: .38-50 Hepburn
(08-21-2022, 10:47 PM)ian45662 Wrote: It turned out to be a dumpster fire for me. Tomorrow I will try to figure out what went wrong
Hey!! Ian, I see you came in third Master, what's wrong with that ??
Your .38-50 shot better or you shot better than I did
It looks like it was a good turn out looking at the leader board.
Kurt
The reason a dog has so many friends is because he wags his tail instead of his tongue.
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08-23-2022, 10:05 AM,
(This post was last modified: 08-23-2022, 10:07 AM by ian45662.)
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ian45662
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RE: .38-50 Hepburn
Very good turnout. Hopefully that bodes well for the nationals which will take place there next year.
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08-27-2022, 03:01 PM,
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ian45662
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RE: .38-50 Hepburn
Shot a smaller match today. 27 off the sticks and 4 chickens….. I feel a little better after friendship. I was getting really bad paper rings last weekend. When I got home I had checked the brass and it was getting long. I couldn't fit my chicken bullets into a fired case which are .003 under groove so they should have went right in. I’m not sure how I let them get that long but I dialed my trimmer back so that they are approx .005 short of my chamber. I may trim them back a few thou more and see what that does but it shot much much better today.
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08-28-2022, 09:35 AM,
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Distant Thunder
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RE: .38-50 Hepburn
Ian,
I like to keep all my brass no more than .005" short of the 45 degree chamber stop, .44-77, .45-70 & .40-65. I find that anything .010" or more and I will get paper rings which I would rather avoid. I'm not sure how much they affect accuracy, but they can't be a good thing.
I don't have much in the line of case stretching, but I don't anneal my cases nearly as often as some shooters. I have not annealed my .45-70 or .40-65 brass since day one, not ever. I am thinking about annealing my .44-77 brass this winter after 6 or 7 loadings. They have not been annealed since they were fire formed initially. I have seen a lot of cases ruined by annealing and since I don't size my brass, not ever, I don't see a need to anneal. I do very lightly close up the case mouths for my bore diameter PP, VERY LIGHTLY.
The only reason I am thinking about annealing my .44-77s is because of the cost and time it takes to make new cases. If I do, it will only be the necks, I will avoid the shoulders altogether.
I am in the habit of quickly checking my case length before each loading, in part because I keep them as close as I can to the chamber length, but also so I'm not trimming more than a few thousandth when I do have to trim a few.
Of those 3 rifles, my .45-70 is the most forgiving of "short" brass. My .40-65 and .44-77 will start coughing up paper rings with anything more than .005" short.
With my .40-65 I do trim to .005 short of chamber length. I had to trim my .44-77 right at 2.250" to avoid paper rings. Most of that brass is finally getting to chamber length.
I don't chamfer the inside of my case mouths anymore either, that effectively shortens the case length too. I do deburr the ID using a special reamer that fits the fire formed case and with one or two turns by hand any burr is gone.
As always, YMMV. It's a journey, enjoy the ride.
Jim Kluskens
aka Distant Thunder
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08-28-2022, 11:44 AM,
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JKR
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RE: .38-50 Hepburn
(08-28-2022, 09:35 AM)Distant Thunder Wrote: Ian,
I like to keep all my brass no more than .005" short of the 45 degree chamber stop, .44-77, .45-70 & .40-65. I find that anything .010" or more and I will get paper rings which I would rather avoid. I'm not sure how much they affect accuracy, but they can't be a good thing.
I don't have much in the line of case stretching, but I don't anneal my cases nearly as often as some shooters. I have not annealed my .45-70 or .40-65 brass since day one, not ever. I am thinking about annealing my .44-77 brass this winter after 6 or 7 loadings. They have not been annealed since they were fire formed initially. I have seen a lot of cases ruined by annealing and since I don't size my brass, not ever, I don't see a need to anneal. I do very lightly close up the case mouths for my bore diameter PP, VERY LIGHTLY.
The only reason I am thinking about annealing my .44-77s is because of the cost and time it takes to make new cases. If I do, it will only be the necks, I will avoid the shoulders altogether.
I am in the habit of quickly checking my case length before each loading, in part because I keep them as close as I can to the chamber length, but also so I'm not trimming more than a few thousandth when I do have to trim a few.
Of those 3 rifles, my .45-70 is the most forgiving of "short" brass. My .40-65 and .44-77 will start coughing up paper rings with anything more than .005" short.
With my .40-65 I do trim to .005 short of chamber length. I had to trim my .44-77 right at 2.250" to avoid paper rings. Most of that brass is finally getting to chamber length.
I don't chamfer the inside of my case mouths anymore either, that effectively shortens the case length too. I do deburr the ID using a special reamer that fits the fire formed case and with one or two turns by hand any burr is gone.
As always, YMMV. It's a journey, enjoy the ride.
Jim,
Interesting point you’ve made about chamfering. Is your ID reamer something you’ve made yourself? Somewhere I have something like that for 30 cal. made by Wilson.
I’ve been using steel pins for cleaning and do notice some peeling. It takes more chamfering than I like to clean it up.
JKR
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08-28-2022, 05:32 PM,
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Distant Thunder
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RE: .38-50 Hepburn
JKR,
What I have is a tapered reamer that I bought for some long forgotten job years ago. I stumbled across it awhile back and a light went on in a normally dim place. It turns out to be a size that does both .44 (.448) and .45 (.452) caliber. The taper is very slight in the 4" length, it works well. I don't get much peening but I do get some. I have tried a couple different things and this works best. It doesn't really touch the side walls, it just removes the burr.
I have always been careful not to over do the chambering, but my .44 forced me to find a better way.
Jim Kluskens
aka Distant Thunder
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