Everybody's favorite GG bullet?

[Robert L]

What is everyone's favorite GG bullet for standard BPCR (200yd - 500yd), no wiping between shots.

Caliber
Weight
Style
Anything particular to the bullet like reduced first band, etc.

I would like to get a cross section of the bullets currently being used.

[Don McDowell]

No such thing. If you're going to shoot more than a couple of shots, then you'll need to blow tube at the minimum. If the ambient temps get above 80 and the humidity goes below 30% you're going to need to wipe. Lube uses plays a pretty big part in it as well.

[Robert L]

Not sure what you are reading but I never said anything about not needing a blow tube. Also don't know where you shoot but in the BPCR matches I shoot there isn't enough time to wipe between shots. I was trying to limit the discussion by specifying no wiping.

If the question is too difficult for you just ignore it. It's not that important.

[Don McDowell]

Not sure what you are reading but I never said anything about not needing a blow tube. Also don't know where you shoot but in the BPCR matches I shoot there isn't enough time to wipe between shots. I was trying to limit the discussion by specifying no wiping.

If the question is too difficult for you just ignore it. It's not that important.

Robert I shoot bpcr silhouette and target rifle, and you may be surprised to find out most of the shooters in both disciplines wipe. If a person has their wits about them and their poop in a group so to speak, you can wipe the bore between shots just as fast with better results than a blow tube.

[Nuclearcricket]

I have always used a blow tube but to be honest I was surprised to see that almost everyone at the Eastern Nationals was wiping between shots.
That being said, in shooting both a 45-70 and a 38-55 I have had very good luck with a Postel bullet. Mine are case from standard molds from NEI.
Just my $.02 worth.
Sam

[Old Jim]

I don't shoot much anymore, but when I do, I use the Postel or Doc's Money bullet or BACO's Creedmore, all in .45 caliber, all GG bullets. I have plenty of time for the blowtube and have not used the wiping technique. Others I have shot with in matches/shoots have wiped with plenty of time to keep up. I will try it in the future,

The best, Jim

[Lumpy Grits]

One MUST perform some type of fouling control to maintain target accuracy. I blow tube.
My favorite GG bullet is my .45 Paul Jones Creedmoor. I cast it at 30:1, shoot it 'as cast'. pan lube w/DGL. Seat to just cover all grease grooves. This has worked well in both of my Shiloh's, one in .45-70 and the other in .45-90.
My #2 is a PJ Postell given to me by Dan T, many years ago. Load'n is the same....
The Postell shoots a couple of MOA flater out to 600yds. But the Creedmoor punches through the wind better at all distances, and groups better.
Gary

[Don McDowell]

When I won the Sharpshooters midrange national championship. I used both blow tube , in the morning when the weather was cool ,and wiped when the temps came up. Most times when shooting silhouette I wipe between shots and never have any problems with the time clock.
Bullet lube plays a big role along with the powder and the fouling it leaves behind.
The bullets I use range anywhere from the Lyman postel, a money bullet, or brooks original postel/creedmoor's...

[Kurt]

Robert.

You did not say what type of shooting you want to do, and what the time limit and number of shots you need to get off.
For a silhouette match where you get to the second bank you have one minute per shot to knock the critters down. Plenty of time to wipe or use the tube, unless your shooting on a hot day in the sun then the tube gets iffy.
But if your shooting a bunch of critters and the score counts for as many you can lay over then this is another game where the tube and wiping stick just don't work for this.
I spend a lot of time perfecting the ability to shoot "dirty" no fouling control. It can be done and done with decent accuracy for this game. You just need the proper bullet for shooting in a fouled throat with the least amount of lead coming into contact with the bore. The alloy needs some tempering also. Usually a hard #2 Lyman or harder type of alloy with the proper bullet diameter or one very soft with the least amount of tin comes out on top. To much tin makes the alloy a solder and this is what sticks to the bore.
You need a bullet that has the ogive that is short and of less diameter then the front driving band so it will clear the bore diameter lands and most important it acts as a fouling scraper that removes the fouling from the previous shot fired. Very important.
Here is a link of the bullets that will do this. http://www.castpics.net/subsite/HistMold...atalog.pdf Go to page 90 and down. There is one bullet for the .45 caliber still being made. The Ideal 121. It is now a Lyman 121-PH it was originally for the 86 Winchester so it is a smaller diameter then the .458 single shot rifles use now but with a soft alloy they will work great for shooting "dirty" The multi lube grooves filled with lube will hold the bullet setback from collapsing those grooves, also the small amount they do collapse will deposit more lube in the bore. This is impotent, use a thin .020" or less card under the bullet so it does not remove the lube left behind from the bullet. That is the front scraping band is for. A wad cut from the serial box is the Ideal thickness. But you need a better then groove diameter bullet to hold back the gas so you don't gas cut the bullet shank destroying the accuracy.
I use the 121 in my lever Marlin and I can empty the tube as fast as I can lever the action and it will function. Also don't cut that flat nose down thinking it wont shoot past two hundred yards worth a hoot. It will reach the 1000 with out a problem. Yes you will have to spin that idiot knob on the top of the sight staff a turn or two more but it gets the job done.

Something to think about..........Kurt

[Kurt]

I might add: most of those bullets moulds where made adjustable. And a lot are a Pope design.