Rimfire Bufffalo Silhouette

[Dan Cash]

Hi Don:

Guess we lost the original poster

attached is the first pdf layout of the stand and the buff

still arguing with myself about the pivot design----------a couple of other ways may work better i'll investigate them when i have a minute

anyway----comments-----feedback----------other design ideas?

You are on the right track but if I may suggest, lets simplify things.
First, instead of the frame, you need only two pair of legs welded to a plate forming a "V" at the apex of the "V." Bore a hole in the plate fractionally larger than the swinger rod. Letting the legs splay out at the bottom will keep the assembly stable from side to side.

Second, to keep the target from working side to side, put a hose clamp on either side of the swinging target.

A section of car tire tread fastened between the legs under the swinger will virtually eliminate frame hits that ring.

I will supply some pictures later on today whch will illustrate what I am advocating. The ideas here on this thread are motivating my friend and me to hold a .22 BPCR match in conjunction with the other matches at next year' Badlands shoot.
Dan

[Dave Roelle]

Hi Dan:

I can visualize with that discription---------let me have a few days to lay it out---------simple is always good

One principal of the idea i drew up is thats its integral-------ya can't lose pieces

The idea i layed out is a bit bulky----------perhaps using the splayed leg frame we can noodle a way to tie the pieces and parts together so that ya still have the "no missing parts" advantage

I'll fire up the C.A.D. one evening late this week and see what i can come up with

Dave

[Dan Cash]

A olong piece of aircraft control cable threaded through washers spot welded to the individual parts. If the swinger is left assembled on its pivot rod, you will have 4 pieces counting the tire section.

[Dave Roelle]

Hey Dan--------------something like this ??

[Dan Cash]

Dave,
That is exactly what I was describing. A target like that has given me good service for a number of years with high power rifles and BP cartridge guns though the legs on mine are quite shot up. Have been getting ready for a match plus a zillion other things (I am retired so should not be busy) so have not gotten any pix of my old swingers. I did cut some pieces to weld up a .22 target last night using material from the ranch "goodie pile." I'll get it welded up Monday and post some pix that will include the tire tread apron and perhaps a range report on its performance.

[Dave Roelle]

Thats great Dan-------------i think that with a bit more thought the cross bar can designed to keep the assembly from falling into a pile of pieces without adding the cable-------------when i get another minute i'm gonna "noodle it a bit"---if we can get it to that point ya should be able to just pick em up and throw em in the truck bed and not have tangles and not lose any bits

I'm still thinking through the swinger pivot tube------it may have a bit too much "drag" and not allow a complete upright return of the target----------i'm thinking a pair of washers might perform more reliably

looking forward to seein the pics------------------i'm half retired-----------got bored and help out a friend in his machine shop for grins

Later

Dave

[Dan Cash]

Dave,
Here is my humble, spur of the moment swinger made from scrap out of the "goody pile." The rod is some ancient sucker rod from an old well pump, The metal plate is some 3/8 - 7/16 AR steel that is way too heavy for .22. It required quite a counter weight to hold it upright; the extreme mass inhibits the swing.

1/4 mild steel would be ample, I think. The pipe nipple works well and alows good swinging action. If one is careful in making the legs and attaching the target to the nipple, there is no need for any thing to hold the target in the center of the pivot rod as the legs will do it nicely. If one uses rod, the legs can be bent slightly or pressed into the ground to level the target if necessary.

I fastened the counterweight excentricly to correct my off center welding. If one welds the moving portion of the target carefully so every thing is in line, I would use a piece of allthread to hold the counter weight. I would cast the counter weight with an allthread connector in the middle so the weight could be easily raised or lowered to achieve the desired swing.

In the case of this target, the tire tread idea is not necessary and undesireable as it only complicates things withoout adding any benefit.
Dan[attachment=26][attachment=27][attachment=28]

[Dave Roelle]

Hi Dan:

Excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!

At the shop i have everything to put one together------------i'll have a go at it this week if i get a chance---- we have been in overtime for like 18 months so government job shop time is scarce

Seems the "take apart" nature of the stand might allow some quick and interesting changes of target shape and size

I'll cut the buf profile from 1/4 inch and see what kind of counterweight it needs

Once we have a debugged working design i'll draw the pieces in cad with dimensions for other folks to duplicate if they wish

Keep well and stay safe

Dave

[Dan Cash]

Hi Dan:

Excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!

At the shop i have everything to put one together------------i'll have a go at it this week if i get a chance---- we have been in overtime for like 18 months so government job shop time is scarce

Seems the "take apart" nature of the stand might allow some quick and interesting changes of target shape and size

I'll cut the buf profile from 1/4 inch and see what kind of counterweight it needs

Once we have a debugged working design i'll draw the pieces in cad with dimensions for other folks to duplicate if they wish

Keep well and stay safe

Dave

I think some hard 3/16 would be optimal. Also, the way this is shaping up, a hit "flasher" would be great on any target you set at 100 to 200 yards. I will rig one and send a picture as it is very simple to do.
Dan

[Dave Roelle]

Ok Dan--------------looking forward to the "flasher"