OK Jim I will make an attempt with this. I don't talk to well with my fingers, the old German does still get in the way at times.
The .45-70 used to be my primary north woods rifle for many years before I could afford a Shiloh and that was a trapdoor carbine and I used the GG bullets along side what you see in the photo, sorry about the GG you said you had no interest in but I used it and still would now if I would ever go back up in the UP MI. There is in my opinion no better hunting bullet for the black powder rifle shooting in hunting conditions. You can load and shoot as many rounds with out a jam because a fouled throat. Look at the ogive and front scraping band and the lube grooves. This is a bullet Pope made for the Ideal bullet moulds.
I call it the no chase bullet.
OK, End of the GG.
Now my primary hunting rifles and calibers are the .44-77 and .44-90 BN Shiloh's. The .44-77 is the rifle you shot at Harris.
In the dark woods up your way when a front moves in from the Lake you know it gets dark in a hurry so I use nothing but barrel sights. They are the Long Lawrence rear sight that gives me three preset ranges, 100 yds 215 with just flipping the ladder up and the slide I set at 300 and I hold off for everything in-between. I have a range finder but up in the UP I seldom get a shot past 100-150 unless I hunt the clearcuts or the power lines. I shoot 200 yards enough that I don't need a range finder for 50 + or - at those ranges.
The front sight is a reproduction of the Hartford that Steven made for me. Just a rub with my thumb over the bronze insert it shines.
The loads.
I have a couple chromo's but don't use them. I find more value putting holes through the paper to see what my loads do than working with velocities.
The bullets I use for the .44-77 and the .44-90bn are both you see in the photo. The first shot bullet is patched to bore diameter. I want this to get the best accuracy for the first shot fired. It will not chamber for the second shot. That is the bullet left of the .44-77 round. It is a bullet cast with a Brooks adjustable mould set at 485 gr .432" diameter 1.325" long and cast with 1/20 alloy.
I deep seat my hunting bullets so they don't fall out while in the pocket or belt.
For this bullet for a follow up shot I use a thin .0015" paper and I adjust the bullet by seating just the bullet in a fouled throat with out the shell and measuring it with a depth gauge and seat it .01" off that depth. I do this in both of the rifles.
The other bullet that you see in the .44-90 I had BA make when they first got into the bullet moulds when Dave and Jim called me discussing dimensions. I wanted the Metfort profile but it came close and they still offer this bullet in there line up. For this bullet I wanted it with intend of shooting in a fouled chamber because this is what I shoot mostly for hunting or busting rocks and bowling pins and it works well for this use.
That bullet is .428" diameter 1.470" long 518 grains using 1/20 alloy.
I use this bullet in the 19 ROT in both rifles and it does well at 200 with the .44-77 and it gave me honors at the MT 1000. It's not supposed to shoot in a 19 ROT but it does.
Wad stack.
This is what makes a fouled throat workable, and is what nI used for a wad stack with the 100 round group in the target above. I was a scraper wad that has a dome (concentric) and I place it flat side on the bullet base with a hard fiber wad .06" against the copper scraper wad (The Coper scraper wad is nothing new, it was used back in the 1800rds) and a lube wad under it with a milk carton wad over the powder. I adjust the lube wad so everything fits in the case neck, not below the neck. The copper wad will expand when the powder is lit and it scrapes the fouled bore from the previous shot fired. Your probably thinking UGGG copper, never seen it in the bore. The disk is only .025" thick. I use it for my swaged pure lead pistol bullets and it keeps the bore free of lead as long as I keep the velocity of the .45 ACP. I ran out of picture room so I can show how they look on a swaged bullet base.

My lube is made from a hard Tallow I make mixed with Vaseline to the softens I like just above like real butter from the fridge. Squish it between the thumb and finger it squishes out

I want the lube in the bore not on the ground that looks like it was loaded. It does no good laying on the ground.
I might cup my hand over the breach and exhale slowly to put moisture in the bore if I have time or blow down the muzzle with the fingers wrapped over the muzzle blowing through my hand.
Well Jim this is my way and the best I can do explaining it.
End of long finger talk